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The
Miramichi
Canoeing in New Brunswick
©
Outdoor Adventure Canada
 Very
few rivers have names as evocative as the Miramichi in New Brunswick.
The Mighty Miramichi, as it is sometimes referred to, flows out
into Miramichi Bay in north-eastern New Brunswick. Where it comes
from is more difficult to ascertain. The Miramichi, renowned as
the most important Atlantic Salmon River in the world, is fed
by countless streams, brooks and tiny lakes which constitute a
huge watershed. The longest and best known of its branches is
the Main South West Miramichi.
The Main South
West Miramichi practically cuts the province in half, from west
to east, beginning roughly mid point between Grand Falls and Fredericton.
Its most populated area is at its mouth, near the city of Miramichi;
towns are dotted regularly as you travel upstream and thin out
once you get past Boiestown.
There are
many outfitters and lodges in and around the Doaktown area. These
offer adventures which can include as much as a fully appointed
and stocked private cabin on the river's edge for a lovers' weekend
to as little as a canoe, paddles and PFDs for half day trips.
Enthusiasts more inclined to discover the wilder side of the Miramichi
will have to head up river towards Juniper Station. Its ultimate
source is situated on land belonging to the oil/paper magnate
JD Irving. The first publicly accessible put in is at Half Moon,
near Dearside.
The best time
to ensure the water level of the streams, where the Mighty Miramichi
is modest indeed, are high enough is in late spring. Unfortunately,
that is also the every-possible-bug-that-bites season. Bring industrial
quantities of insect repellant and, if you are particularly sensitive
or want to keep your sanity, bug nets. The geography near the
headwaters consists of wooded pools linked by winding streams.
Again, water level is a consideration to avoid scraping bottom,
or worse, having to portage from one pool to the next.
 The
river route from the Half Moon put in to Boiestown can be paddled
in 2 or 3 days, depending on how aggressive you choose to be.
It includes several rapids and swifts and areas where it is definitely
better to stop and scout prior to continuing. Make sure you have
an accurate, detailed and up to date map before you set out.
One interesting
side trail accessible from the riverside is that which leads to
Falls Brook Falls. It is a wood road leading up a steep incline
which can be seen just past an island, about 30 minutes downstream
from Clearwater. Falls Brook Falls, the tallest in New Brunswick,
drops 24 m (80 ft) before hitting the rock wall and tumbling the
last 6 m (20 ft) in a puff of mist. The falls are on private property
and there is a cost to access the site.
A popular
take out spot is at the Hayesville Bridge, about one hour after
the Miramichi re-enters civilization. If you don't mind being
back in the populated areas, continue on to Boiestown. En route,
you will encounter rocky swifts from pool to pool, but no real
rapids.
All along
the route are campsites, each situated, it seems, to enable the
visitor to more fully appreciate some feature of the landscape.
There are wooded peaks, meadows, islands - all areas where if
you are lucky you can observe moose, deer and several species
of aquatic birds and birds of prey. There are also cabins which
the owners leave open to other travelers, asking only that they
be left in the same state they were found in.
Canoeing the
Miramichi is a memorable adventure in a region full of beautiful
scenery and unspoiled waterways.
Special thanks
to Miramichi
Memories for the photgraphic materials.
For more articles
please view the archives.
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