paddling
Place of Wonder
Sea Kayaking in British Columbia's
Queen Charlotte Islands
©Outdoor Adventure Canada
Known
as Canada's Galapagos, the Queen Charlotte Islands are located off British
Colombia's northwestern coast on the Pacific Continental shelf. The
region is a large archipelago that hosts the Gwaii Haanas National Park.
The Haida phrase Gwaii Haanas means islands of wonder. South Moresby,
also part of the Queen Charlottes, is famed for its temperate marine
zone which is known to be one of the richest in the world. This is a
coveted place for sea kayakers with hidden coves, little islands and
Haida history.
It is recommended that you visit this area in the spring
because the wildlife viewing and weather conditions are much better
in this season. You should be an experience kayaker and the use of a
guide is encouraged. You must register your trip with the Canadian Coast
Guard and notify them of you return. You should also have a good deal
of experience with navigation, paddling, and wilderness skills. Some
of the islands are remote and one cannot rely on passers by to help
if you are in trouble. There are also several day trip opportunities
for paddlers who lack experience.
There are many options including taking a kayaking expedition
where you are dropped off and then picked up a few days later. There
are also "mothership" adventures where you travel on a larger
vessel with amenities and explore the area by day, staying on the "mothership"
at night. The east coast of the islands is more sheltered than the west
coast.
Gwaii Haanas is the breeding area of over three quarters
of a million sea birds. Peregrine Falcons breed here more than anywhere
else in the world and it is the only known breeding site for Horned
Puffins. Sea life includes whales, porpoises, and seals. There are rainforests
throughout the area and an abundance of wildlife.
The Haida people inhabited these islands for more than
10, 000 years and the Haida still provide services to people in the
region. The Haida Gwaii Watchmen are a group of volunteers who camp
at heritage sites throughout the Queen Charlotte's. They ensure that
visitors respect the fragility of the area. They also provide important
information on safety and marine conditions.
You
will glimpse the haunting images of weathered mortuary poles carved
by the Haida from solid cedar. These poles have a small cavity near
the top of the pole which was for the entombment of a chief or wealthy
individual. The sacred poles serve as a fine example of Haida art. On
Anthony Island you will see a large number of totem poles that are surprisingly
standing in their original positions. The longhouse ruins at T'anuu
'Ilnagaay are amidst the rainforest. At one time there were 31 mortuary
poles at this site. Eel grass grows nearby and the village name translates
to Eel Grass Town. Visiting the Haida villages is an interesting and
cultural experience.
From the haunting beauty of ancient Haida totems to the
colorful marine life, sea kayaking in this archipelago has an almost
magical appeal and provides challenges for the experienced sea kayaker.
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Written by Laurie March
Photos courtesy photos.com
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